A few weeks ago, I wrote about series 1 colours from Daniel Smith, today let's look at some options from series 2.
Hansa Yellow Medium (PY 97) is a very versatile mid yellow that's capable of produce vibrant greens or orange with the right primary colour. If I can only have one yellow in my palette, this is the yellow I'll pick.
For a warm yellow, perhaps Permanent Yellow Deep (PY 110). Isoindoline Yellow (PY 139 isn't as transparent. Permanent Yellow Deep is warmer compared to New Gamboge (PY 97, PY 110) which is actually a mix of this colour with Hansa Yellow Medium.
For a muted yellow, I was actually thinking of Burgundy Yellow Ochre (PY 43) but it's actually less vibrant compared to Yellow Ochre. My top choice for a mute yellow, that I use frequently to mix skin tones, is actually Monte Amiata Natural Sienna (PBr 7) which is a lovely colour from series 1.
The limitation of series 1 colours from Daniel Smith is the lack of red. In series 2, there are many wonderful options.
My first red, which is actually a very warm orange, is Transparent Pyrrol Orange (PO 71). Together with a warm or mid red, this is going to give you the most vibrant orange.
Pyrrol Crimson (PR 264) and Quinacridone Rose (PV 19) are both considered cool reds but they look very different and hence can both be included. They will give you a huge range of violets and purples.Quinacridone Magenta (PR 202) can also be included. Some consider this the true primary colour compared to any other red.
The two blues worth considering in series 2 are Cerulean Blue Chromium (PB 36) and French Ultramarine. Ultramarine Blue (PB 29) is considered the cooler version of the two Ultramarines. The difference is actually very subtle that you may want to just use Ultramarine Blue instead to save money.
Sap Green (PO 48, PY 150, PG 7) is a must for me. I love this green and use it all the time. I always mix this with Ultramarine to darken it. For a cool green, actually you can just pick Phthalo Green (BS) since that's the cheaper and more popular choice. From series 2, I would pick Amazonite Genuine instead.
And the last colour to replace Burnt Sienna would be Italian Burnt Sienna. I've tried Burgundy Red Ochre and Fired Gold Ochre. They don't look right and Minnesota Pipestone Genuine isn't a intense enough.
Below are selected mixes from those colours above.
These are the most vibrant oranges you can mix with Transparent Pyrrole Orange and the two yellows, Hansa Yellow Medium, and Permanent Yellow Deep.
To mix a vibrant green, you would have to go with Hansa Yellow Medium and Cerulean Blue Chromium.
Mixing the warm yellow Permanent Yellow Deep with the blues will produce very dry muted greens.
These are the purples from Cerulean Blue Chromium and the reds.
And these are purples from French Ultramarine and the reds. The purples here are slightly more vibrant compared to those above. Warm blue and cool reds always give you the most vibrant purples. But I love to use Cerulean Blue Chromium for mixing so that's a must for me to.
For the grays, you can mix French Ultramarine with Burnt Sienna, or the two ochres mentioned above. I would go with the classic Burnt Sienna. If I feel a bit more fancy, maybe Italian Burnt Sienna.
So these are the colours I've picked from series 2. I don't have all of Daniel Smith's colours so maybe I may update this list in the future.
If I have to pick 12 colours from series 1 and 2, they will be
- Lemon Yellow
- New Gamboge
- Monte Amiata Natural Sienna
- Transparent Pyrrole Orange
- Pyrrol Crimson
- Quinacridone Rose
- Cerulean Blue Chromium
- Phthalo Blue (GS)
- Ultramarine Blue
- Sap Green
- Phthalo Green (BS)
- Burnt Sienna
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